Introducing The Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT

There's a new flyer in town.

As every watch enthusiast knows, there are two kinds of GMT watches (basically; the typology of dual time-zone watches is much more complex but this distinction is the most fundamental). These are what are known as “flyer” and “caller” GMT watches. The latter does not have an independently settable hour hand to show local time – rather, it has a 24 hour hand that can be set independently (hence “caller” – it’s more useful for, say, knowing what time to call a different time zone). “Flyer” GMT watches (also sometimes called “true” GMT watches, which understandably irritates owners of caller GMT watches) like the Rolex GMT Master II, have an hour hand that can be set independently, without stopping the movement. This means that if you are flying, and want to set the watch to your new time zone when you arrive, you can easily change local time in one hour increments, forwards or backwards – much more convenient.

Although flyer GMT watches have been historically more expensive (caller GMT watches can be made using affordable and readily available supplied movements, like the ETA 2893) there has been a little bit of a mini-trend over the last few years of brands introducing more wallet-friendly GMT watches; the 2018 Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT is one example (Alpina is a Citizen Group brand, acquired in 2016). Citizen has just announced a new entrant into the flyer GMT game – the Series 8 GMT.

The Series 8 GMT watches represent a somewhat more sophisticated take on the GMT complication. The Series 8 automatics were launched back in 2021 (Monochrome described them as “truly impressive, and clearly outside of its [Citizen’s] comfort zone.”) The Series 8 designs feature a complex, angular case with sharp, crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, as well as a couple of in-house Citizen calibers – the 0950 and the 9051. The collection predates the 2021 international launch; it was actually introduced in 2008 but was Japan domestic market-only until 2021.

The new Series 8 GMT watches come in several different configurations. Cases and bracelets follow the established Series 8 design language, and dimensions are 41mm x 13.05mm. The dials have a complex pattern that Citizen says was influenced by the rectilinear shapes of the Tokyo skyline, and the pattern plays off beautifully against the faceted hands and applied markers. The 3:00 date window is well done also, with a beveled frame and thoughtfully designed typeface. Changing the local time is straightforward: unscrew the crown (the watches are water-resistant to 10 bar/100 meters) re-set local time, and you’re done. The movement is the in-house caliber 9504, which based on the number seems to be a GMT variant on the 0950, as it shares the same power reserve and antimagnetic construction (the Series 8 GMTs have a display back as well).

In addition to the two launch models with black-and-blue and Pepsi bezels, Citizen is launching a limited edition in gold DLC, with a patterned dial Citizen says is inspired by the glow of sunset on grass in the autumn.

The standard models are $1695 at launch, and the limited edition is just slightly more expensive at $1795. I had a chance to try on prototypes of all three models (and was so excited I forgot to get wrist shots, which I hope to address sooner rather than later) and was very, very impressed. I’m honestly not sure how Citizen manages to produce watches with this sort of clean, crisp fit and finish, functionality, and overall complexity of execution at this price point, but I’m certainly glad they did. One of the characteristics of the company is that it has a long-standing commitment to variety as well as responsiveness to its customers in different markets, so it has the company culture and manufacturing flexibility to be nimble, and also to take advantages of economies of scale to over-deliver in quality (something of a theme in general in Japanese watchmaking. The Series 8 GMTs are great value of course, but you certainly do not feel when you have one on, that you have settled – they’re useful, attractive timepieces which unlike so much of the increasingly expensive quote luxury unquote watches out there, are accessible enough to make a real difference in people’s lives. The pragmatist in me wants one of the standard models but the LE is pretty tempting – it’s got character to burn.

The Citizen Series 8 GMT: cases, stainless steel or gold DLC, 41mm x 13.5mm. Sapphire front and back with AR coating. Movement, Citizen caliber 9504, automatic, 50-hour power reserve, running in 24 jewels at 28,800 vph. Prices, $1695 for standard models; $1795 for the gold-tone limited edition of 1300 pieces. Available this fall.