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Rip Roach's avatar

Great article, Jack, as is the BHI article. This whole topic--essentially, the pursuit of accuracy/precision in wristwatches--is one that's always confounded me. On the one hand, I love mechanical watches, the gears and springs and the resulting "aliveness" that they somehow bring to an inanimate object in a manner that no quartz watch ever can. And of course, a watch being an instrument used to tell time, ever-greater accuracy/precision is a goal that's hard to argue against. So yes, cheers to Spirate's maybe getting us to within a second a day. Not bad. Not bad at all. And certainly more than adequate for almost any reasonable use. Especially if it doesn't end up doubling the cost of any Omega that incorporates it. So, in spite of what's going to follow, cheers to Omega!

But something else nags at me: what of the other costs of this pursuit of accuracy? The costs, that is, of moving ever-further away from the workbench, from the metals and oils that went into every watch made until maybe 20 or so years ago and thus made them unmistakably "alive"? For example, the dependence on advanced silicon technology. No, this isn't microchips, whose "wires" have widths of maybe a hundred atoms. But it's also hardly something that the proverbial "little old watchmaker" could ever have incorporated. Are these things bad? No, of course not, but they do suggest a spectrum of sorts--at one end, the most basic end, would be a watch that could have been made by Breguet himself back in the day. Just metal, and totally makable in a Breguet-like workshop back in the 1800s. And the other end? Well, depends on how you limit the conversation--obviously the other extreme would be GPS-controlled watches accurate to a second per life-of-the-universe days. But let's ignore those for now, and set other limits to the "more accurate" end of the spectrum.

One limit would be "what could Breguet use, back in the day?" Metal, obviously. No silicon. Spirate need not apply. And certainly not quartz. But you can tinker with things like innovative escapements, e.g. Daniels' coaxial, maybe not improving accuracy but maybe improving maintenance intervals.

Another, less stringent, limit, might be "gears and springs." Any material you'd like, no matter how technologically advanced, as long as it's just gears and springs. Spirate gets to play in this game, and probably represents the current opposite extreme of the spectrum from the basic "what could Breguet do" end of things, as long as we limit things to gears and springs.

But nowadays, how much point is there in pushing this end of the spectrum? One second a day is great, but even if we forget about radio- or GPS-controlled watches, Rolex has reached +/- 2 seconds per day with everyday mechanical movements, and going WAY out there, Citizen has developed a quartz watch that's good to one second per 365 days. That's more than two full orders of magnitude better than Spirate. And for (probably, if Omega incorporates it into their overall line) about the same price. So here's Spirate, which (maybe) your AD can adjust to a second a day--and here, for not all that much more money (well, at least at list price...) there's Rolex, which is good for 2 seconds a day right out of the box.

What, in the end, is the best accuracy that we can expect from the "basic Breguet" mechanical watch? One that can be made by a watchmaker in a workshop much like Breguet's, without silicon, without CNC machines, made more or less the way Breguet did? Would a watch like that be acceptable these days? Would it keep time to within, say 10 seconds a day on the wrist? Five? Three?

And, of course, if we limit ourselves to that sort of watch, how scalable would its manufacturing be? Would it be possible to make, say, 500,000 such watches a year? Or would they be so limited in production as to be, well, Dufour Simplicities? Because ultimately, to me, "that sort of watch" would be my mechanical watch preference, rather than the silicon-enhanced versions that are coming out these days--I guess I'm kinda with you on this score: get me a functional 19th century observatory chronometer and I'll be a very happy man! (And dead broke, but hey, we can't have it all, and meanwhile, yes you're taking my GPS-controlled Citizen away from me over my dead body! Different horses for different courses, as they say.)

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Eric Fish, DVM's avatar

Thank you for the thorough explanation, I'm more impressed now than when it was announced. This is the kind of writing current HODINKEE is lacking: someone with deep expertise explaining watches from the engineering side with a heavy dose of history and a splash of philosophy.

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